Month: October 2011

Table Top Sale

Saturday 3rd December 2011

Lyon Hall   10am – 1pm

To book a table please contact Glenys on 01630 685661.

Come along and enjoy a coffee and a bacon butty!

Christmas Bingo

Wednesday 23rd November 2011

8.00pm at Wollerton Social and Bowls Cub

Organised by Hodnet Luncheon Club,  Christmas Bingo with eyes down at 8.00pm. No need to pre book, turn up on the night.

Trivia Quiz

Thursday 17th November 2011


Venue:  The Lyon Hall, Hodnet

The Lyon Hall committee are holding a trivia quiz to raise funds. The  entry price for a team of 4 is £5. The prizes are:

1st Prize – £20.00

2nd Prize – £ 10.00

There will also be a raffle held throughout the evening.

To enter your team contact  Janice Parker on Tel 01630 685531 no later than Monday 14th November 2011.

Please bring your own drinks & glasses!

Operation Christmas Child

It is time again to think about filling a shoebox for the Operation Christmas Child scheme.
Leaflets explaining what you can and can’t put in the shoeboxes will be available from the parish churches, Hodnet Post Office, and Hodnet Village Stores. Hodnet primary School also has its own allocation of leaflets for giving to pupils.
A donation of £2.50 is requested for each box filled and this helps towards getting the boxes overseas.
Joanna Davies has been the co-ordinator for the scheme for several years and has been cheered by the support everyone gives. She says “Let’s hope 2011 is our best effort yet.”
Completed boxes need to be in handed in by Tuesday 15th November. (Monday 14th November for the school).
For further information please call Joanna on 07943-851398 or email

Quiz Night

Hodnet 2nd Scout Group.

Quiz Night.

  • Lyon Hall, Hodnet

  • Saturday 15th October

  • 7.30 p.m onwards

  • Teams of 4

  • £10 per team

  • Refreshment and raffle

If possible please register your team before the night to give approximate numbers for catering purposes.
To register your team telephone:- 01952 840 443
or email,
Please come along and support your local youngsters.


Trugg and Barrows garden diary October 2011

“The leaves fall, the wind blows, and the farm country slowly
changes from the summer cottons into its winter wools.”
Autumn is a season with a split personality, it swings recklessly between the optimism of summer and the foreboding of a winter to come. This autumn has been no different. At the beginning of September temperatures were low enough for log burners to be lit and winter quilts to go on. Early mornings had that end of summer gloom and a chill that threatened a frost. By the middle of the month clear blue skies and ‘hot’ mid-summer temperatures had returned. The ‘unusual’ weather has confused some plants to such an extent that they are showing autumn leaf colour and spring flowers at the same time.
The lack of rain over an extended period and the recent ‘hot’ weather has meant that many trees in the garden are forgoing this year’s autumn display, with many leaves turning ‘crispy’ and brown and falling off. Some trees that would usually lose their leaves gradually over a month or more have shed most of them in less than a week.
Rain will return again, and the gardener can start to carry out many autumn jobs that he or she has been putting off due to the dry conditions such as tree and shrub planting. This is best done when the soil is moist from autumn rains but still has some of the summer’s warmth in it.

Turning thoughts to Trees.

As summer turns to autumn the changing colours of deciduous trees remind us once more of the presence of trees in the landscape. Trees can seem intimidating subjects for the gardener; it is often hard to envisage what effect planting a young tree will have in decades to come.
Planting a tree is a serious commitment and it is worth getting the basics right. October onwards is an excellent time to plant trees, especially bareroot specimens. There is usually more moisture in the ground, more humidity in the air and still enough warmth to encourage rooting out.
Choosing a Tree.
Look before you leap is the best advice. Having said that, there are a bewildering number of trees available to suit any situation depending on what attracts the gardener’s eye. Some are attracted to bloom, some to autumn colour and some are looking for something of more utilitarian value.
Do your research. Adding a tree can totally transform a garden, adding form or contrast to existing planting. There are some basic things to get right first. What soil do you have? What size or shape do you want? Do you want evergreen or deciduous? Some trees are better left to the specialist, some will be at home in most situations. There is a lot of discarding to be done before making a final choice.
Willows, alders and poplars will fail without moisture, whilst there is no point planting a giant like a horse chestnut in a small back garden. Visiting a garden centre is not a good way of selecting a tree. Go instead to a garden or arboretum with a selection of mature subjects.
Buying a tree.
There are two types of venue which might be called garden centres. The first, which includes many supermarkets and DIY stores, buys in bulk from wholesalers and relies on fast sales to justify the space given to plants on the shelves. This does not mean that you cannot get a bargain, but for something that is going to give pleasure over decades is it not worth spending a few extra pounds. Plus the range can be restricted by the demands of expediency.
The second venue is the nursery, which might be more expensive but often they do far more growing and propagating than the former, even if they do not grow everything themselves.
Planting is critical. Dig out a hole larger than the pot or root spread and put the spoil to one side. Fork over the bottom and sides of the hole and work plenty of organic matter into the bottom and into the spoil. Next, place the tree in the hole and get an assistant to tip in water from a can or hose whilst you backfill it. This will settle it in well. Remember to keep the tree straight. Potted specimens should be planted with the roots at the level of the surrounding soil or slightly above, bare root at the nursery line. Spread compost or manure around the area but not up to the trunk.
Planting container grown specimens can be done at any time of year providing they are kept adequately watered. However, avoid planting in drought, frost or waterlogged conditions. Dunk the pot in a bucket of water before planting until the air bubbles have ceased, then plant into a prepared hole. After that give a good soak every week.
Bare root plants come in the dormant season from November to March. They can then be planted over winter whilst still dormant. This only works with deciduous trees which shut down during winter. This means that when growth resumes, the plant can produce the fine hair-like ‘osmotic’ roots which absorb water and nutrients. Evergreen, although slowing down do not actually stop in winter so it is impossible to transport them without soil. If not potted they usually arrive root-balled with soil still preserving those osmotic roots.
Staking and Tying.
There are many methods of staking, each with benefits and detractions, and some advocate no staking as it helps the tree establish quicker under some conditions. But, if you choose to stake the basics are simple. You want to hold the tree upright and in position while it roots out.
Try if possible to put the stake on the windward side of the trunk so the tree, even when tied can flex away from it and strengthen its trunk. Make sure the stake is firm;I often decide where it is going to be and put it in before I backfill the planting hole. Also the stake should not rub or chafe against the trunk or branches so tie the tree in using a tree tie made from rubber or a wide band of material in a figure of eight fashion. Tie it securely around the trunk first and then against the stake so the crossover or knot is in-between the tree and stake. Never use string or wire and make sure the tree can move in the wind without the tie marking the trunk but not so much that it rocks at the root.
The object of preparing a planting hole with organic matter is to get your tee off to a good start; when it begins to produce osmotic roots there will be food available for further growth. Trees root deep down to anchor themselves and across the surface to make the most of food and water. After planting, a top dressing of organic matter and leaf mould will help preserve water and supply nutrients but there is no reason why a slow release granular fertilizer may not be added as a boost.
Happy Planting!

In the kitchen garden.

September in the kitchen garden has been a month of greenhouse maintenace. With windows washed, wood work painted and brocken pains of glass replaced. I am still trying to get the late summer pruning of fruit trees complete as well as the rest of the garden tidied for the winter.
Please note: images have been removed from this pages because some of them may have been used without permission.